Using lacquer - advice please

[Pete Shepherd]

I've mentioned on my Datsun post that I don't use lacquer but must admit that when painting some metallics the paint even after polishing doesn't have the same shine as solid non metallic colours. I'm currently building a a King Cobra which is metallic blue and I read on another forum that someone used TS-79 semi gloss and I thought this looked really good as it wasn't over the top shine which I think looks unrealistic sometimes on model cars. So I've got myself some of this and will be using it on the King Cobra. 

Question is, what's the best way to go about it? I've already painted the body and have as good a finish as I'd normally get with metallic paint but I haven't gone any further with it. In Brian's Aston thread elsewhere on here he mentions polishing the body before lacquering it which I found surprising as I thought this wouldn't help the paint stick. Also in terms of coats, do I go heavy or light or just spray in the same way I do with the colour? 

Any advice welcome

Thanks,

Pete

[Chris Wright]

Feb 10, 2016 11:40:00 GMT Pete Shepherd said:

I've mentioned on my Datsun post that I don't use lacquer but must admit that when painting some metallics the paint even after polishing doesn't have the same shine as solid non metallic colours. I'm currently building a a King Cobra which is metallic blue and I read on another forum that someone used TS-79 semi gloss and I thought this looked really good as it wasn't over the top shine which I think looks unrealistic sometimes on model cars. So I've got myself some of this and will be using it on the King Cobra. 

Question is, what's the best way to go about it? I've already painted the body and have as good a finish as I'd normally get with metallic paint but I haven't gone any further with it. In Brian's Aston thread elsewhere on here he mentions polishing the body before lacquering it which I found surprising as I thought this wouldn't help the paint stick. Also in terms of coats, do I go heavy or light or just spray in the same way I do with the colour? 

Any advice welcome

Thanks,

Pete

Hi Pete,

Once you have your colour coat on the car (I'm assuming that it's Tamiya) polish sand it, I usually use VERY fine modellers wet and dry in problem areas. I then thoroughly wash the body in warm soapy water, then let dry.

Next I get a bowl of hot water, (not too hot, from the tap) put the TS-79 semi gloss in the warm water for 5-10 minuts.

Put body on some form of extension of some kind so that you can turn the body around etc. Take can out of water, give the body 2-3 light mist coats, let dry 5 minutes between each coat of paint. Keep can in water between coats.

Top coats: Apply 2-3 top coats wet, allow 15 mins between each coat. Again keep can in water between coats of paint, you may have to renew the water to keep the paint warm.

Let dry for 24 hours. Get some Tamiya fine polishing compound, apply with a soft damp cloth, and buff out, and bob's your uncle etc, finished.

[cambridge]

Jeez! I'm not saying it doesn't work. Clearly it does by your excellent builds, Chris, but I either get a gloss coat with the gun if I have cellulose handy, or give it a go over with Akrifan, which is a gun ready one coat gloss, made by Lechler. If going over decals, a very misty light coat that's almost dry as it goes on, then a thicker one. The beauty of Akrifan is that in room temperature, it dries really quickly, so you can re-coat without putting the gun down. Dries hard as glass to a beautiful sheen that doesn't need polishing.
Martin

Edited to say, I don't use Tamiya paints as I can't get them anywhere near me and they seem a bit pricey!

[Pete Shepherd]

Thanks for the replies gents. 

Chris, I've actually used Halfords paint from here in the UK. What would happen if I didn't polish the bodywork? The paint has gone on nicely and the finest wet and dry I have is 2500 grit, is that too course? Or can I just polish with T cut? Will the paint then stick?

The rest of your technique is how I paint a car normally so I'm fine with that part which is a good!

Martin, I haven't bought any Tamiya rattle cans for years but have heard good stuff about this semi gloss and thought I'd give it a try. I'll only be using it on metallic cars which come out a bit flat as I can achieve a decent finish with solid colours which means this Tamiya habit shouldn't become too expensive!

Thanks,

Pete

[Chris Wright]

Hi Pete, yeah the t-cut should be fine, just wash with lots of soap to get residue off. 2500 grit would work too, all you are looking to do is get a blemish free surface.

Do a test with the Tamiya on Halfords before you commit. (you never know if there is going to be a reaction).

[cambridge]

I'm sure T-Cut is fine, except I haven't seen any for years! I use Dura-Glit or Solvol to polish paint, but I guess with a spray gun or even occasionally an airbrush, there's no need to polish as the finish should be fine from the gun.

Martin

[Pete Shepherd]

Well today I tried the semi gloss lacquer and have to say it's very disappointing. I did everything that was described and the paint looks no different to when I started it. I haven't polished it out yet as I haven't waited 24 hours, maybe miracles will happen when I do polish it.
I started with the thin coats and then the wet ones where it started to look good but then dried and the 'wetness' disappeared. Luckily I tried this on a broken plastic kit which had never been painted so nothing is lost (except £7 out of my pocket).

Chris, do you use the semi gloss or another lacquer? Would like to see your results with the semi if you have used it please. 

Thanks,

Pete

[cambridge]

I would always use a gloss, Pete, because that can be polished UP or DOWN depending what you use. Cars should be gloss as they will have been painted gloss to start with. I have used a Mr. Hobby flat cut spray which is fabulously matt, but never found a satin worth a toss.
Go with a standard Halfords gloss and don't use too much of it.

Martin