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Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jul 4, 2016 20:19:19 GMT
The Revell ‘Highway Pioneers’ XK120 Jaguar was actually started in late 2009, so it’s about time it was finished. This isn’t based on any particular car, and was actually made to test out an idea I had for making etched wire wheels…… The body had the rear arches cut out and apart from filling a few holes that is it. The Revell body is spot on regarding width, but lacking almost 2mm in the wheelbase. The front track is correct, the rear is deliberately set as wide as possible. The driver is a resin one from a set I made several years ago. All based on an Airfix figure, all had different types of headgear. This is the 'pudding basin'. The flyscreen was included on one of the last frets I had done for the wire wheels. This is the 'strong' version with the tall sides to the frame. The chassis is a very simple folded aluminium fabrication, the motor is front mounted as can be seen, and like most cars I built back then, the guide is a modified MRRC part. Not particularly fast, but it will fit nicely into the club's 1950's Le Mans/Sports Car class. Peter.
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EJI
Allowed a 327 V-8
Posts: 39
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Post by EJI on Jul 4, 2016 22:49:44 GMT
Nice build Peter, I particularly like the aluminium chassis. Food for thought. Thanks for posting.
regards Eric
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Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jul 6, 2016 21:30:46 GMT
Eric, the aluminium chassis' are very easy to make and with the half hard aluminium they are very strong too. The only occasional hiccup is if a bend goes wrong, then the chassis must be made again, as re-bending will crack the aluminium.
On the drawing board at the moment is an epoxy/aluminium composite chassis for a car which has little room inside but is still getting an S can angle winder.
Another Jag is also on the go, to be finished as an Ecurie Ecosse car and with a better (aluminium) chassis.
Peter.
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Post by dangermouse on Jul 7, 2016 10:45:38 GMT
I also like the chassis - are the sides for the axles folded up? I am looking for a simple chassis for some 1/24 bodies I bought (the Tamiya repro ones) What height do you set the axles at (how do I best work that out?) and have you got bearings at the rear. I think I need to think about a good drill press one that will let me accurately drill two holes in line with each other cheers David
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Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jul 11, 2016 12:43:53 GMT
David, all my chassis are made of half hard aluminium, most are flat except for the occasional swept up tail end and most have axle mounts about 1" apart due to the favoured piece of steel I use to bend them over.
Most chassis' are made to fit the body (at sill level), the chassis mounts are then made and the axle mounting flaps bent over.
To mark the axle positions I simply mount the body on the chassis and place a 3/4" -7/8" I/D washer in the wheel arch and mark each hole position. It seems most wheel arches are out a little, so these arches will be corrected and then the hole positions properly marked.
The holes are drilled individually, the fronts 1/16", the rears 1/8", giving a little leeway for correction. I normally check the alignment on a flat surface with lengths of piano wire through the undersize axle holes, making any corrections necessary.
At the front the axle runs direct in the aluminium, at the rear I use MRRC axle bushed (similar to Scalextric) modified to top-hat type bushes, which are then simply pushed into position.
Peter.
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